Sgurr na H-Umaha

October on Skye.
A less frequented part of the Cuillin, but a stunning peak in a remote location. Archie and Ian joined me for the long walk along Glen Sligachan, out along the Harta Corrie path then up steep pathless terrain to get to the base of the mountain. We were heading for the South Ridge scrambling route.
After looking at the climb from earlier photographs I had figured out exactly where to go, but the reality of being up close to the rocks meant I could no longer be sure of the start. Enter Archie’s Aye-Phone – complete with maps and a red ‘X’, ahhhh so we are 100M too far to the left, a very useful bit of tech.
The scrambling was fairly easy, with a good bit of loose rock to avoid. Higher up we came to the crux section, which probably merited the grade 3 rating. The rock in the area is extremely rough gabbro, and the holds and friction are great.
The summit is not marked by any cairn or post at all and it is hard to find any evidence of past ascents, until on descent, coming across an in-situ sling. Here we used it to abseil the steep section. The ridge then becomes easier and rises again to Sgurr Beag and onwards to the normal descent route for Sgurr nan Gillean.

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