Feb 3rd, Druim Shionnach, Deceptive Chimney

Firstly I am happy to say that (for now) my computer problem is fixed. Friday the 3rd Feb was a cracker, no wind but a hard frost, it was great to be in the sun with a stillness over the Cluanie hills. Ian Jeffrey and I were to go to the West Face to look at the turfy routes there, and if nothing was suitable then we would have gone to the Coire an T-Slugain cliffs. As it happened we setled to climb ‘Deceptive Chimney’, a grade III. It was easy enough to start but then found myself in a corner with chunks of turf spaced out and sparse protection. I probably spent an hour threading slings and bashing some metal into the cracks. Ian who had cooled down then had the worst Hot Aches seconding. The next pitch was a long run out on more straightforward ground leading up into a chimney-slot. All turf and well frozen, this was a good pitch. As darkness was falling (late start) I could hear the stags roaring in the glen….actually it was not the stags, just Ian cursing at some well jammed bits of gear, (a wire in the chimney for the taking). Anyway a very satisfying route perhaps grade IV,4 rather than III?

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