Attempt on ‘White Wedding’, Sat 17th Dec

Well, Ian Jeffrey and I had some plans to go to the Cuillin after reading Mikes Blog. We thought that maybe there would be a good build up of ice to climb, so we headed for White Wedding (IV), West face of Sgurr A Ghreadaidh. On the approach it looked as if there might be enough ice to climb. We climbed the short intro pitch and I stepped out to have a look at the main ice groove. I decided that, although there was enough ice for placements, protection was going to be zero for the full length of the rope – due to the compact rock and ice wouldn’t hold a screw. A formidable pitch it looked, I would like to come back again if the ice grows fat, but it may go to a bold leader. We also had a look at climbing Stag-Do, a grade III but again I turned back at the ice as it was only thinly adhered to the rock. The snow cover is extensive but with lots of powder still, even on the West face which is exposed to the wind.

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