Feb 3rd, Druim Shionnach, Deceptive Chimney

Firstly I am happy to say that (for now) my computer problem is fixed. Friday the 3rd Feb was a cracker, no wind but a hard frost, it was great to be in the sun with a stillness over the Cluanie hills. Ian Jeffrey and I were to go to the West Face to look at the turfy routes there, and if nothing was suitable then we would have gone to the Coire an T-Slugain cliffs. As it happened we setled to climb ‘Deceptive Chimney’, a grade III. It was easy enough to start but then found myself in a corner with chunks of turf spaced out and sparse protection. I probably spent an hour threading slings and bashing some metal into the cracks. Ian who had cooled down then had the worst Hot Aches seconding. The next pitch was a long run out on more straightforward ground leading up into a chimney-slot. All turf and well frozen, this was a good pitch. As darkness was falling (late start) I could hear the stags roaring in the glen….actually it was not the stags, just Ian cursing at some well jammed bits of gear, (a wire in the chimney for the taking). Anyway a very satisfying route perhaps grade IV,4 rather than III?

Buachaille Etive Mor, Guerdon Grooves, 28th Jan

Here are a few pics of the team on Guerdon Grooves, Guy Robertson, Nick Bullock and Bayard Russell Jr. http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=2611
No more pics here as I am sending Guy the photos from the day for his own use in the book.
It was a long day for the climbers, starting about 9-20AM. I went down over the top when the light faded, and I didnt see the torches coming out until about 7PM.

14th Jan, A fine Mountaineering day out, Ledge route Ben Nevis

A 4 AM start from Skye got us to the North face car park, Ben Nevis, and on our way at 6-30. There was a long trail of headtorch lights up ahead! The promised nice weather never came and the mountain was shrouded in cloud all day, except for a few glimpses of the summit in the early morning. We had decided not to climb today but to have a long hill day, so we climbed Ledge route which was great and in excellent snow conditions. It was very cold on top so we kepy walking towards the summit, hoping for views, but nothing except looming cornices. We finished the day by heading over the CMD arete, not completely on snow, maybe about 50/50 snow and rock. The snow sections were great though. We met several groups going the other way. A long descent on tired legs and we were back down about half three.

Attempt on ‘White Wedding’, Sat 17th Dec

Well, Ian Jeffrey and I had some plans to go to the Cuillin after reading Mikes Blog. We thought that maybe there would be a good build up of ice to climb, so we headed for White Wedding (IV), West face of Sgurr A Ghreadaidh. On the approach it looked as if there might be enough ice to climb. We climbed the short intro pitch and I stepped out to have a look at the main ice groove. I decided that, although there was enough ice for placements, protection was going to be zero for the full length of the rope – due to the compact rock and ice wouldn’t hold a screw. A formidable pitch it looked, I would like to come back again if the ice grows fat, but it may go to a bold leader. We also had a look at climbing Stag-Do, a grade III but again I turned back at the ice as it was only thinly adhered to the rock. The snow cover is extensive but with lots of powder still, even on the West face which is exposed to the wind.

Post Box Gully, Sgorr Ruadh – Sun 11th Dec

Archie and I went to Sgorr Ruadh for our first Winter route of the season. It was a bleak day and rather damp underfoot. There is alot of drifted snow above 300M but it was not until we got well above 700M that the temperature dropped to freezing. There is powder and spindrift everywhere but with some freeze/thaw it will consolidate. Turf not well frozen. The climb, (Post Box Gully grade II), is good with a great first pitch through a cave with a narrow exit. There were 3 short steps in the upper gully too. A good route in a wild area.

November Grey

I have spent some time in Durness in the last week. I had hoped for some nice weather for photography but was hit with endless rain and gales, grey skies every day. I have taken a few pics which kind of show the best bits between the bad spells.

8th Nov, Glen Torridon – Celtic Boulders

It was a great day in the NW, clear sky and warm sunshine together with the rich colours of Autumn. I was to meet Guy up in Torridon just after midday. He turned up having just soloed the Cioch Nose route in Applecross. Keen to do more rock we went to the Ship Rock, where he climbed ‘North Face Direct’ – font 5+. And then on to ‘Dandy Don’s’ – font 6b. A quick romp up Squelch, font 6c. Malcolm’s Arete was the main target, at font 7a+ (possibly harder with the broken hold?). Guy tried a few times but decided to come back another day. A mate of Guy’s turned up, Dave Macleod, who had been climbing on the rocks higher up Liathach. He had a go and climbed the Arete in fine style. Here are some pics from the day. (Hi Jim if you are reading – sorry I didnt have time to call in for a visit).